The Best Buys

What's the best buy? The best buy means paying less and getting more. That's what we all like. Below is a list of what I think are the best buys in cameras and lenses. Cameras and lenses mentioned here are not necessarily the best (although they might be), but the ''Best Buys'' in their class. Lets start with the cameras.
Pro SLR


We have the rock solid Nikon F5 loaded with pro features, costing around $2000. Canon just introduced the blazing fast EOS-1V, heavy duty body and high tech sure to be a winner, but also at a high cost. Minolta has the rugged and loaded Maxxum 9, with easy to operate dials and knobs. Nikon F-100 and Canon EOS-3 are the other choices, but I don't consider them true professional cameras. Although theses are rugged cameras, they are not as rugged as the top three. Pro SLRs must withstand very heavy use under very difficult conditions. F5, EOS-1V, and Maxxum 9 include moisture and dust resistant in extremely rugged bodies. All three have 100% viewfinder accuracy lacked in F-100 and EOS-3. Nikon F-100 and EOS-3 are above advanced SLRs but slightly below pros. For the price and features, Maxxum 9 is the best buy. A true professional camera loaded with features and very convenient to use. It costs less than its competitors, but does not lack any of the major features. You get extras with the F5 and EOS-1V by paying more, but the 9 gives you all that's truly needed for your money. Fast autofocus, three accurate metering modes, depth-of-field preview, mirror lock-up, full viewfinder information, multiple exposure, autobracketing, shiftable program mode, aperture and shutter priority, shiftable manual mode (a very cool feature), 21 custom functions, +/-3 stops of exposure compensation and flash compensation, built-in eye piece blind, 5.5 frames per sec film advance, and much more. Most of these features are also available on the F5 and EOS-1V plus these two top cameras have added features such as F5's 1005-pixel 3D Color Matrix metering, 8 frames per sec film advance, interchangeable finders, or EOS-1V's faster autofocus, weather-resistant body, and larger EOS lens system. F-100 and EOS-3 also include most of these features and EOS-3 has 45-point eye-focus. You can pay more for the F5 or the EOS-1V and certainly get two of the best pro SLRs ever made or pay a little less and get the F-100 or the EOS-3 if you don't need the extra strength body construction and 100% viewfinder coverage. For the price, Maxxum 9 gives you all that is absolutely necessary in one rugged pro body which is convenient, reliable, and fast. I believe in spending on equipment that are really needed. Money should be spent on film and processing. If you don't really need some of the fancy features on the other top SLRs, Maxxum 9 is the best buy.

Update: Contax introduced the N1 autofocus pro camera. Unlike the AX, N1 uses new Contax autofocus lenses rather than manual focus Zeiss lenses. The Contax N1 uses a Dual Focus Mechanism with autofocus Zeiss lenses to focus on the subject by switching between manual focus and auto focus modes instantly. Two new features not found in other SLRs include 5-Point Wide Array Diagonal Auto Focus System and Fine Focus ABC (Auto Bracketing Control), which makes it possible to shift the focus point in three automatic stages. The optional Liquid Crystal Display Viewfinder FE-1 allows the user to check the picture on an external full color viewfinder. When the Liquid Crystal Display Viewfinder is attached to the camera's eyepiece, you can preview composition and exposure in the Liquid Crystal Display Viewfinder. I fell in love with the N1 when I first saw it several months ago. I have been trying to get my hands on an N1 for a test report, but so far I have had no luck. N1 is very rugged with excellent controls. Body is rugged and full featured. It is undoubtedly as sophisticated as the F5, EOS-1V, and Maxxum 9. Its main draw back is limited autofocus lenses, although Contax has promised to release more lenses soon. N1 is reasonably priced, but lenses cost more than the competition.

Advanced SLR

You have five choices in this category: Canon EOS A2/A2E, Minolta Maxxum 800si, Pentax PZ-1p, and Nikon N80 and N90s. Nikon N90s, EOS A2/A2E, and Pentax PZ-1p have been around for a while and I believe they will be replaced soon. All four remain very capable and advanced cameras, but the newer models have more improved features for the same cost. Nikon N90s is a pro caliber SLR, but I'd go for the Nikon F-100 instead. Cost of the F-100 is higher but you get more up to date features. Same goes with Canon. If you prefer eye-focus then EOS-3 is a better choice, Don't want to spend a lot to get the EOS-3? EOS Elan IIE is available and costs less than the A2E and has most of its features. What about Pentax PZ-1p? It's time for Pentax to replace this camera and bring it up to date. Perhaps it's time for a new pro SLR from Pentax. Don't get me wrong. PZ-1p remains a capable camera but newer models in its class offer more. Maxxum 800si is Minolta's advanced model, but somehow I can't justify the cost. You can get the same features in other less expensive models. I pick Nikon N80 as the best buy in this category. Newer than all of its competitors with very advanced features. You get Program, Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, Manual modes, full viewfinder information including Focus indications, metering system, AE lock, shutter speed, aperture, exposure mode, electronic analogue display/exposure compensation display, frame counter/exposure compensation, ready-light, multiple exposure, focus area, flash exposure compensation, focus area brackets, 12mm circle for centerweighted metering, fast TTL phase detection, Nikon Multi-CAM900 autofocus module with single or continuous with tracking, 3D Matrix Metering, centerweighted metering, and spot metering, exposure compensation ±3 in 1/2 steps, single Area AF and Dynamic AF, autobracketing, built-in TTL Speedlight (flash), 30 seconds to 1/4000 of second shutter speed, multiple exposure, depth-of-field preview button, up to 2.5 frames per sec film advance, diopter adjustment, and lots more. If you don't want to spend on a pro SLR but still get all the pro features, N80 is a great buy.

Update: Pentax has introduced the MZ-S top of the line advanced SLR and Minolta has added the Maxxum 7. These cameras are not in the same league as the F5, EOS-1V, or the Maxxum 9. Their features can match the top guns but their not built as tough as the top three. I place them in the same category as the F-100 and EOS-3. Maxxum 7 is undoubtedly the most sophisticated SLR (as of May 2001) in terms of features. Maxxum 7 is loaded with features that are useful rather than just impressive. The large navigation display on the back is a fantastic tool that I hope to see in all future SLRs. Maxxum 7 is simple to use with all the features you can possibly want in a camera and more. It actually offers more than the pro Maxxum 9, except the 9 is more rugged. Maxxum 7 is a unique camera that a beginner can pick up and start shooting while pros can appreciate its navigation display, mirror lockup, depth-of-field preview, instant manual focus access, and super fast autofocus. Pentax MZ-S is an excellent easy to use camera made of a diecast magnesium alloy, which is light and more durable than plastics or resins. The  SAFOX VII autofocus system features an extra-wide AF frame with six autofocus points: five points aligned horizontally, and an additional point above the middle point. Pentax has produced a camera that includes what advanced users really need without adding unnecessary features that would have just added to the cost of the camera. MZ-S has a 2.5 frames per second film advance with 1/180 to flash sync. I would have preferred a 4 frames per second and 1/250 sec flash sync. MZ-S is designed to make operation simple. All functions are easily accessible and clearly marked. Pentax has introduced a camera to go head to head with the F-100, EOS-3, and the Maxxum 7. Pentax users who want to upgrade to a more advanced SLR, need not hesitate to purchase the MZ-S. Maxxum 7 and MZ-S are both excellent alternatives to more expensive pro cameras at more affordable prices. I consider both models great buys because of their prices and features compared to more expensive pro and advanced cameras including the F-100 and EOS-3.

Amateur
If you want a camera which is loaded but find the pro and advanced models too expensive, try the midrange models. Canon offers the EOS Elan II and IIE with built-in flash, fast autofocus with single or continuous modes, 11 custom functions, 2.5 frames per sec film advance, 10 exposure modes including Program Image Control, exposure compensation, autobracketing, and more. EOS IIE also has eye-focus capability. Minolta Maxxum XTsi has all of the above minus EOS IIE's eye-focus, but includes eye-start automation. N70 is the middle Nikon model. N70 also has most of the EOS and Maxxum models with improved features such as faster high speed film advance, +/-5 stops of exposure compensation, 3D Matrix metering. Unlike the silver finish EOS and Maxxum, N70 is all black. Silver finish seems to be today's fashion and the camera that started it all happens to be the best buy. Pentax ZX-5 took the top three companies by surprise. Loaded with features and nicely finished in silver and black, ZX-5 was an instant success. It was later upgraded to ZX-5n with very easy to operate dials and knobs found on older manual focus cameras. This is a major plus in my opinion. Working with push buttons and wheels can be confusing. ZX-5n let you instantly operate its system without having to stop to think which button does what. Camera includes Program, aperture and shutter priority, and manual modes, evaluate, centerweighted, and spot metering, +/- 3 stops of exposure compensation in 1/2 steps, autobracketing, AE lock, pop-up flash, panorama format, 3 autofocus sensors with fast single or continuous modes, depth-of-field preview, and it is very solid for a camera in this class. ZX-5n is a well made camera that should give you years of service. I wouldn't be surprised to see this camera working 20 years from now just as the Pentax K-1000 did.

Update: Nikon N-70 has been discontinued. N65 is a new SLR that falls in between the N70 and N60 (also discontinued) with 6-segment 3D matrix metering, 2.5 frames per second film advance, +/-2 stops exposure compensation, five separate AF detection sensors that cover the top, bottom, center, left and right, Auto Exposure Bracketing in 1/2 EV steps, Remote Control capability, Built-in Diopter, All-mode Depth-of-Field Preview Button, Multiple Exposure Control and AF Assist Illuminator for low light shooting. You cannot possibly ask for more in an amateur camera at a price less than $300. N65 is a great buy for amateurs who want sophisticated features without having to pay more.

Beginner
Lets look at the choices here. We've got Nikon N60, Canon EOS Rebel 2000, Maxxum HTsi Plus and QTsi, and Pentax ZX-7 and ZX-50. All silver finished and are very easy to operate. Nikon N60 with 6 segment 3D matrix metering, four exposure modes plus five Vari-Program modes, pop-up flash and a top shutter speed of 1/2000 sec is a very good choice for beginners and even more advanced photographers. Canon EOS Rebel 2000 is loaded and even includes a depth-of-field preview as well as 10 exposure modes including subject programs, evaluative metering, and single or continuous autofocus. Minolta Maxxum HTsi Plus is also loaded with exposure modes which include subject program selections, pop-up flash, continuous film advance, wireless flash, and a top 1/4000 sec speed. QTsi is very basic with only program modes that include subject programs, pop-up flash, and fully automatic operation. Pentax ZX-50 is similar to N60, Rebel 2000, and Maxxum HTsi in terms of features. Camera includes five exposure modes with five picture modes, pop-up flash, +/-3 stops exposure compensation, manual ISO override, and a top shutter speed of 1/2000 sec. Except for the Maxxum QTsi, all of these beginner models are also capable of more advanced work. All allow the beginner to take full control of camera features when they understand more about photography. Another camera that has a lot to offer and is very easy to use, is the Pentax ZX-7 which happens to be the best buy in this class. This camera is so easy to use that the only thing you need to do is to turn the Off switch to On position. That's it. You see seven dial symbols light one after another. Camera takes full control and selects the best program depending on the subject's motion, lens focal length, and light. You can also select one of the picture modes or aperture priority, shutter priority, or manual mode. Pop-up flash is included as well as panorama mode, wireless remote, exposure compensation, multiple exposure, AE lock, 30 to 1/2000 sec shutter speed, single or continuous film advance, fast auto focus with tracking, and more. The only thing missing is spot metering and depth-of-field preview. Pentax ZX-7 is extremely easy to use and allows the beginner to slowly grow with the camera and take full control when they understand more about exposure and more advanced photography.

Update: Nikon N-60 has been discontinued.

That's it with the cameras. Remember, this list is my opinion. Only you can decide the best buy for yourself based on your budget and needs. One thing is for sure and that is all the cameras mentioned above as well as any other camera in the market, are all capable of producing quality images if you attach a quality lens, use quality film, use a solid tripod, and use a little imagination. Now, lets look at the lenses:

Extreme wide-angle zooms
Everybody has at least one version of this popular zoom. Canon has two: 20-35mm f-3.5-4.5 and 17- 35mm f-2.8; Minolta 17-35mm f-3.5 and 20-35mm f-3.5; Nikon 20-35mm f-2.8; Pentax 20-35mm f-4; Tamron 20-40mm f-2.7-3.5; Sigma 17-35mm f-2.8-4; Tokina 20-35mm f-3.5-4.5 and 20-35mm f-2.8; Vivitar/Phoenix 19-35mm f-3.5-4.5. I included the faster and very high priced versions here to show you what's available. These are pro quality and rock solid lenses costing well over $1000. For average user who doesn't need the fast glass and better built body construction, one of the slower versions will work just fine. Believe it or not, the best buy is the Vivitar/Phoenix 19-35mm. This lens has sacrificed body construction to keep the cost down but with very sharp glass. I bet you won't be able to tell the difference between images taken with this lens when stopped down and its more expensive competitors. If you are not rough on your equipment and want to save money, Vivitar/Phoenix 19-35mm zoom is a sharp buy. This lens is actually made by Cosina under the name Vivitar or Phoenix. Who's Cosina? A company that makes cameras and lenses for other companies! Some of the companies are the major manufacturers. You might own a camera or lens that may have been made by Cosina and not the brand you think. Don't worry. They are made to manufacturer's specifications. Yes, Cosina is made in Japan.

All-in-One zooms
I'm not a great fan of these zooms. What if you are on your vacation and accidentally drop your one and only lens? You are done taking pictures. If you are absolutely careful and know you won't drop your lens, and check your lens carefully before you leave to make sure it's working properly, then consider Tamron 28-300mm f-3.5-6.3. This is the best buy in its class. You can go with the Sigma 28-300mm f-4-6.3 for about the same price or Tokina 35-300mm f-4.5-6.7 for less cost if you don't mind loosing 28mm setting. Both are well made and sharp. Vivitar/Phoenix 28-300mm f-4-6.3 zoom is very affordable, but don't bother. It is not very sharp at longer setting and zoom ring slides back when held upward. Canon, Minolta, Nikon, and Pentax don't seem to care much about this type of zoom, but I'm sure they'll be adding them to their line up soon. Canon's 35-300mm f-5.6 is a very sharp and well built lens, but aimed at pros and costs close to $2000. Tamron 28-300mm is very sharp and very compact. I wonder how Tamron managed to fit so many focal lengths in such a small lens and still come up with sharp results. This is one revolutionary lens and the beginning of more better built, sharp zoom lenses with lots of focal lengths. O.K. Tamron: we need 14-600mm zooms with f-2.8 constant aperture and life-size capability. Make it very affordable.

Short to long telephoto zooms
This type of zoom is becoming very popular. Canon has the 100-400mm f-4.5-5.6L with Image Stabilizer. Nikon 100-400mm f-4.5-5.6D is very similar to Canon's, but both lenses cost well over $1000. Minolta 100-400mm f-4.5-6.7 APO costs much less than the Canon and Nikon, but you loose 1/2 stop at the longer setting and no Image Stabilization. Sigma has two lenses in this category (with a 50-500mm on the way): 135-400mm f-4.5-5.6 APO and 170-500mm f-5-6.3 APO. Tamron has the well built 200-400mm f-5.6. Tokina makes the 80-400mm f-4.5-5.6 ATX. Vivitar/Phoenix 100-400 f-4.5-6.7 is the lowest priced with cream finish but not very sharp at the longer settings. I'd go for the Tokina 80-400mm f-5.6 AT-X in this category. For the price of the Canon or Nikon, I'd expect to get a faster wide open aperture. I don't believe in handholding long lenses even if Image Stabilization improves your chances of getting sharp results. Tripods and monopods are still the best tools for getting sharp and well composed shots. Minolta is slow with f-6.7 wide open aperture but a very sharp lens. Sigma starts at 135mm with its 135-400mm zoom so you loose 35mm of focal length compared to others and 55mm compared to Tokina. With Tamron starting at 200mm, you loose even more millimeters. Vivitar/Phoenix looks pretty but at 300mm and especially 400mm settings, sharpness is poor when shot wide open. With Tokina 80-400mm you get constant f-5.6 wide-open aperture in a lens that is the size of a normal 80-200mm zoom. This zoom is very sharp and the cost is very reasonable.

Short and tele zooms
Short to medium zooms such as 28-80mm, 35-70mm, or 28-105mm zooms as well as 80-200mm and 75-300mm zooms are available in different speeds and several versions are made by all manufacturers. You get dizzy trying to pick one. I don't think any of these zooms are a bad buy. They are very affordable and sharp. You can stay with your own manufacturers brand or go with an independent manufacturer if you want to save a few dollars. All of these lenses are best buys. Compare prices, close focusing capability, and lens speeds and pick the one you like best.

80-200mm f-2.8 zooms
This is a popular zoom with a very fast aperture. Canon EOS 70-210mm f-2.8L is a beautiful lens and accepts EOS 1.4X and 2X converters. Nikon 80-200mm f-2.8 AF S has been improved and now it includes a tripod collar. Minolta Maxxum 80-200mm is very similar to Canon except it won't accept Maxxum APO converters. Pentax 80-200mm FA is the highest priced in its class. Tamron 70-210mm LD, Sigma 70-210mm APO HSM, and Tokina 80-200mm AT-X, are your independent manufacturers choices. One thing all of these lenses have in common is that they are sharp, very sharp. I don't think you get more by spending on your own camera manufacturers brand. All of these lenses are pro quality built. You can save several hundreds of dollars by choosing either the Sigma or Tokina. Canon, Nikon, and Minolta versions have high price tags with Pentax being way out of line here. I haven't had the pleasure of seeing the Pentax version, but I can't think of any reason why this lens should cost so much. Tamron costs less than the brand models but more than Sigma and Tokina. This is a tie between Sigma and Tokina. Both Sigma and Tokina zooms are very sharp lenses and rock solid. Tokina is the lowest priced in its class. Sigma is a little sharper at 200mm and f-2.8 setting which only becomes obvious if you make very large prints and shoot wide open. Sigma includes HSM for quiet and faster autofocus in EOS and Nikon version. Spending an extra $100 for the Sigma over Tokina may be worth it, but anymore for the other models won't improve your shots.

Fixed extreme wide-angle
Lenses with focal lengths of 20mm or less are considered extreme wide-angle. For most of us, a 24mm is enough. If you work in very tight places such as building interiors or you feel you need something wider than 24mm for landscape and architectural work, then an extreme wide-angle lens should be added to your system. Choices are 14mm, 17mm, 18mm, and 20mm. These are not fisheye lenses, but standard wide-angles. Canon has 14mm f-2.8 and 20mm f-2.8, Minolta only offers 20mm f-2.8, Nikon 18mm f-2.8 and 20mm f-2.8, Pentax 20mm f-2.8, Contax 18mm f-4, Leica 21mm f-2.8, Tamron 14mm f-2.8, Sigma 14mm f-2.8, and Tokina 17mm f-3.5. Play it safe and pay less by going for the Tokina 17mm f-3.5 AT-X Pro. This is one sharp optic with well controlled distortion. It is half way in between 14mm and 20mm and costs less than others. 17mm is very wide and should cover your widest shots. I see no reason by paying more for either a 20mm or 14mm unless you have to be very exact about your millimeters and need the extra 1/2 speed of light.
Wide-angle lenses
You are stuck with your own manufacturers own lenses, and that is your best buy. Except for Sigma's 24mm f-2.8 lens, only major camera manufacturers produce single focal wide-angles. Good news is that all are high quality and affordable. If you don't need very fast apertures, go with the slower versions. Minolta's 35mm f-1.4 for example, costs three times as much as the 35mm f-2, but quality is about the same.
Standard lenses
Anybody's 50mm lens is the best buy. 50mm lenses have been around forever. They are the sharpest and fastest lenses you can own for a very low price. You have the choice of f-1.4 or f-1.8, and the $2500 Canon EOS f-1.0! I'd go for the f-1.8 version. It is still very fast, very sharp, and I could own twenty-five of them instead of just one EOS f-1.0.
Short to medium telephoto
Same as the wide-angle lenses. You are stuck with your own manufacturers own lenses. You should consider these lenses over zoom versions if you need the extra speed and closer focusing ability. Best buy is the lower priced 85mm f-1.8 versions for portrait photographers. Canon, Nikon, and Pentax offer this speed at a reasonable price. Pentax model also includes soft focus. Need faster than f-1.8? Try the f-1.4 version offered by Canon, Minolta, Nikon, and Pentax, and Contax, but expect to pay a lot. Same is true with 100mm f-2 and 200mm f-2.8 lenses. These are extremely sharp lenses with high price tags.
300mm f-4 and 400mm f-5.6 telephotos
Lets see who has these lenses. Canon makes two f-4 models: one with Image Stabilizer and one without, and a 400mm f-5.6. All three are L series. Nikon has the hard to find 300mm f-4 ED IF. Minolta makes 300mm f-4 APO and 400mm f-4.5 APO. Pentax has 300mm f-4.5 ED and 400mm f-5.6 ED IF. Tamron has no lenses in this category. Sigma makes 300mm f-4 macro and 400mm f-5.6 macro in HSM version for EOS and Nikon AF, and non HSM for Maxxum and Pentax AF. Tokina offers 300mm f-4 and 400mm f-5.6 AT-X models. If you plan on using these lenses with teleconverters, then stay with your own manufacturers lens and converters. Teleconverters made specifically for these lenses are of high quality and produce better results than generic teleconverters. The best buy however, is the Sigma 300mm f-4 macro which gives you 1/2 life-size shots as well as telephoto. You can use this lens with Sigma 1.4X and 2X converters with good results. Sigma 300mm f-4 is the lowest priced in its class. Tokina 400mm f-5.6 is the best buy in 400mm range if you don't mind the f-5.6 wide aperture. This lens costs you $1 per each millimeter which I believe is an excellent deal considering what this lens can deliver. Sharp results even when shot wide-open.
300mm f-2.8 and 400mm f-2.8 telephotos
Canon, Contax, Nikon, Minolta, Pentax, Tamron, Sigma, and Tokina all make 300mm f-2.8 lenses. As you can see this is a popular fast telephoto. Cost of one of these lenses made by camera manufacturers is much more than the independent ones. Expect to pay $4000 or more for a Canon, Contax, Nikon, Minolta, or Pentax. You can cut your cost down by 60 percent and get the Sigma or Tokina or by 50 percent and get the Tamron. Tamron is the best buy in this category. Tamron 300mm f-2.8 lenses have sold more than the rest of the manufacturers combined. This is one sharp telephoto with a price tag that makes more sense. If you need a longer than 300mm with the same f-2.8 aperture, your only choice is 400mm f-2.8 and the only manufacturers that make them are Canon and Nikon. For the price of one of these 400mm f-2.8 lenses, you could buy yourself the Tamron 300mm f-2.8 and the Sigma 500mm f-4.5 lens. You call the shot.
500mm and longer lenses
Lets start with 500mm f-4 and f-4.5 lenses. Canon and Sigma make f-4.5 models, and Nikon has the f-4. All three are solid and very sharp lenses that can be used with teleconverters. Best buy here is the Sigma. Sigma 500mm EX APO costs much less than Canon and Nikon. I doubt if you could tell the difference in image quality. 600mm f-4 versions are only made buy your own camera brand manufacturers, Canon, Nikon, and Minolta. Take it or leave it. If you take it, you must pay around $9000. Unless you really need the extra 100 millimeter, stay with the lower priced 500mm f-4 or f-4.5 lenses or consider the Sigma 800mm f-5.6. Sigma 800mm f-5.6 EX saves you three to four thousand dollars and gives you 200mm of extra reach, but you loose 1 stop of light over 600mm f-4 models. What about mirror lenses? You can get a manual focus 500mm f-8 mirror lens from Contax (autofocuses with AX), Minolta AF (the only autofocus mirror lens), Tamron, Sigma (600mm f-8), or Nikon 500mm f-8 or 1000mm f-11. These are slow lenses which render out of focus highlights as donut shapes. They are very affordable and can be used with ISO 200 or faster films to get fast shutter speeds. The best buy is the Tamron 500mm mirror. It can be used on any camera model, either autofocus (except EOS cameras, others in manual focus mode only) or manual focus. All you need is an Adaptall-2 mount available for $30. This is a sharp lens with great close-focusing ability.

That's my best buy list. What are the worst buys?
Cameras: Any camera used without a tripod. If you are not going to use a tripod, at least buy an inexpensive camera. That way it won't be such a waste of money.
Lens: Canon EOS 1200mm f-5.6. Canon has got to be kidding me. Eighty-thousand dollars for a lens!? I'd go for the Kalimar 800-1200mm f-13.5. I save 79,700 dollars and still get a white finish lens that I can even zoom in and out. Quality will suffer a lot, but I'll give my clients a discount