Left Image:
Minolta Maxxum 9Xi, 100mm f-2.8
macro lens, Fuji Velvia 50, flash off camera, Bogen tripod and ball head. Multi-segment metering, 1/250 sec at f-11. Aperture priority and manual focus.

When we photograph larger wildlife, we tend to be more careful. We choose our equipment and approach carefully, but not when it comes to photographing butterflies or other insects. Butterflies are wildlife also and you need to approach them as any other type of wildlife. Butterflies are very aware of their surroundings and any sudden movement can scare them away. You also need to pick the right equipment. When we photograph birds or mammals, we pick the right telephoto lens and take several focal lengths and other accessories. You need to pick the right equipment for butterfly photography as well. Any 35mm camera with aperture priority or manual mode will work fine. Macro lenses are the best choices. Theses lenses let you get close for frame filling shots. Most popular macro lens is the 50mm, but you need to get very close which can scare away your subject. I prefer 100mm and 200mm macros with life-size capability. You can stay far enough and still get close shots. 200mm macros have built-in tripod collar for easier and faster vertical shots. Another alternative is extension tubes. You can use them with any lens for getting closer, but you loose some light. For best results use extension tubes with 50mm to 200mm lenses, either fixed or zooms. You can also use close-up filters. +1 to +3 powers with 50mm and 100mm lenses work best, but you loose corner sharpness. A tripod and cable release must be used for sharp images. Tripods that go very low to the ground are ideal.


Right Image:
Minolta Maxxum 9, Tokina 80-200mm f-208 ATX with Kenko extension tubes lens, Fuji Velvia 50, flash off camera, Bogen tripod and ball head. Multi-segment metering, 1/250 sec at f-11. Aperture priority and manual focus.

Butterflies are best photographed early in the mornings when they are less active, especially cold mornings. Once the sun is up and butterflies are warm, they become very active. Don't chase them around. The best way to approach butterflies is to wait and see where they land. Butterflies are very selective about where they like to rest or what the eat. If they don't like where they have landed, they quickly fly to find another place. Don't set up your tripod as soon as you see one land. Wait a minute or two to make sure the butterfly is settled. Move in closer but not too close. Pick your lens and look through the viewfinder for best composition. Set up your tripod and attach your camera. Stop the lens down for proper depth-of-field. I've used f-stops as wide as f-5.6 and as small as f-22. Remember, the closer you get, the shallower the depth-of-field. Don't stop down more than it is necessary to avoid long shutter speeds. If your subject is cooperative and gives you enough time, try a different focal length and f-stop. 200mm macros or 200mm lenses with extension tubes are one of my favorite butterfly lenses. They throw the back ground out of focus which make the subject really stand out. Pick a natural looking background. Vegetation and flowers are always great. Try to shoot parallel and close to the ground for best sharpness and different look. Try vertical shots as well. It is more difficult to set up your tripod to vertical position, but the results can be very rewarding. You can use flash if light is low or you need to remove shadows, otherwise try avoiding flash. Butterflies are beautiful and make great subjects. With patience and the right equipment you can produce great results.

Final Note: Please do not remove butterflies and other insects from their natural habitats to photograph them. Enjoy photographing them as they are. No photograph is worth destroying the subject.