Black and White Photography

Left Image: Minolta Maxxum 9000, 100mm f-2.8 macro lens, Kodak T-Max 100, one photo flood, Bogen tripod and pan/tilt head. Spot and incident metering, 1/15 sec at f-8, bracketed +/-2 stops in full stop increments on manual exposure mode and manual focus.  

Most of my photography is done in color, but occasionally I like to use black and white films for a different effect. I like to photograph older buildings and some still life in black and white. Many experienced portrait photographers prefer to use black and white rather than color since it gives them more creative freedom. Composition in black and white is the same as color photography. Light has a great effect in the final photograph, especially contrast. Although you are not concerned with color, it has an effect in the tonal balance of your pictures. Films record each color differently, and you need to learn how each color effects your photographs. Some colors come out lighter grays, while others much darker. Film choice is also very important. Most types of film produce only blacks and whites, while others can produce a full range of tones. Slower films have less grain and are the best choices for large enlargements. Faster films should be used in low light but expect grainy images. Chromogenic films have very little grain compared to conventional films, giving finer enlargements and better resolution. Chromogenic films also have a better sensitivity range which allows them to be rated at different speeds. You can correct under or overexposed Chromogenic films during processing with much better results. You should also set up your own darkroom for both processing films and paper. In the darkroom, you have total control over your prints. You can correct your mistakes, fix exposure, contrast, even composition. Labs rarely do a good job with black and white prints. You should also carry several filters for black and white photography. Correction filters are used to control brightness. A yellow filter for example, blocks blue light (yellow is the complement of blue) which can darken the sky. Contrast filters can lighten or darken grays in a scene. You can darken part of the scene while lightening the rest at the same time. How can you tell which part will be darkened and which part lightened? Filters lighten objects of their own color only, and darken the other colors. To darken a blue sky, you can use a No. 8 yellow filter, or a No. 25 red for even a darker sky to make the clouds really stand out. You can use filters for portrait photography to lighten or darken the skin tone. For most portraits you don't need a filter, but occasionally you might want to alter skin tones. Yellow or red filters can be used to lighten skin tones, while blue and green filters can darken it. Below is a list of filters to carry. No. 8 or No. 15 Yellow. No. 25 red. No. 47 blue. No. 58 green. Polarizer.

Left Image: Canon EOS D30, Tokina 20-35mm f-2.8 ATX lens, 1/250 sec at f-11. Original color image was converted to black and white in Photoshop.

The best way to start black and white photography is to run a test by photographing an object in different light with different types of film and filtration. You can do this outdoors or even in the studio. Take notes and compare the results for future reference. Your TV is a good tool for practicing black and white photography. Change the screen from color to black and white; lighten and darken the picture; increase contrast; view the screen through different filters, and notice the different effects. If you are just beginning to take black and white pictures, start with a medium speed film. ISO 100 films are a good choice. Pay close attention to light and its direction, as well as subject's shapes, patterns, textures, and lines. Finally, invest in a small darkroom for total freedom and control. see Darkroom for more information.