Flash for wildlife photography

Left Image:
Canon EOS D30, 1/125 sec at f-4, Tamron 70-210mm f-2.8, Flash,  Bogen monopod and ball head. Multisegment flash metering on aperture priority, Autofocus.

I have said this before and say it again here that I'm not a great fan of flash photography. I don't like the look of unnatural light flash produces. I prefer to work with natural light. Unfortunately, This is not always possible. I use flash outdoors mainly for close-ups of tiny active insects and some wildlife in low light or when I need fill flash. The trick is to make the final image look as if no flash was used. This is not always easy and many times even impossible. When it comes to no pictures or flash pictures, I reach for my flash. Let me quickly explain how flash works and how you should use it. This page is about flash for wildlife photography, but everything you read here also applies to other outdoor type photography.

There are three types of flash modes and many currently made units include all three. TTL is the best mode in my opinion. I'll explain this later. The other two modes are auto and manual. In auto mode, a sensor reads the light bouncing off the subject and then turns off the flash power. The problem in this mode is that only a few f-stops can be used. You can only use two or three f-stops or you'll end up with the wrong exposure. The other problem in auto exposure is the way the sensor calculates the amount of light bouncing off the subject. The sensor reads the light coming back to the flash and not the camera meter. For more natural look or more control, flash should be placed off camera rather on the hot shoe. In auto mode and off flash, sensor will control light coming back to the flash which may no longer be bouncing off your subject or only part of your subject.

The other mode is manual flash. In this mode the flash fires full power all the time. You need to figure out the correct flash-to-subject distance in order to get correct exposure. You can use a formula or refer to the LCD panel on the flash and your lens focusing mark to figure out correct exposure. I have explained this in details on other flash related articles, so I won't go over them again. As you can see, auto and manual flash modes are not the easiest modes to work with, especially with active wildlife.
TTL flash is the best mode for flash photography. Unlike the auto mode, camera's flash meter reads the light bouncing off the subject and through the lens. Once the correct amount of light is reached, the camera turns off the flash. You can use any aperture you want, but you still need to make sure the subject is within flash range and you are metering the subject and not its surrounding.

Image Below: Minolta Maxxum 7, 300mm 2.8 APO lens, flash with flash extender attached


You can use your flash on or off camera. TTL works best either way. On camera flash produces harsh light and red eye in dim light. If you want to do close-ups, you can't position the flash where you need to. Macro flashes are available, but I can't stand these models. They produce flat light which looks very unnatural. You can use your flash off camera for wildlife and close-up photography. I have explained how you can do this before but will go over it again. I have received dozens of e-mails on how to use flash off camera or what off camera flash means. Off camera flash simply means Not using the flash on camera hot shoe. You can connect the flash to the camera via an off-camera cord or wireless flash if you own such model. You will need a flash bracket to hold the flash. There are dozens of brackets available starting at 5 dollars to over a hundred dollars. Pick a bracket that allows you to position the flash in different angles. I use Stroboframe macro flash bracket. This bracket lets you use flash off camera for any type of subject including macro photography. You can position the flash in a number of ways for total control. I use my flash on this bracket most of the time, except when I need to position my flash very high. In this case, I use my Bogen Flex Arm. This is an accessory that fits Bogen Super Clamp (See Must Have Tripod Accessories) system which I have attached to one of my tripod legs. I can attach the Flex Arm to the Super Clamp and my flash is then attached to the Flex Arm. I can move the Flex Arm in any direction. Up, down, left, right, high, or low. Now this is what I call total control.

Right image shows flash extender for adding up to 2 stops of light for flash photography.

Once you position your flash,
TTL will take care of exposure, but gives correct exposure only
if subject is middletone. A brown bear for example will be exposed correctly, but a black or polar bear will need compensation.
Like all meters, TTL wants to make everything a medium gray. For lighter and darker subjects, you need to use exposure compensation in order to get proper exposure.

Use flash only when you have to. If light is dim, then flash must be used. If you are within flash range, just meter and shoot. For some distant wildlife, you need to use a Flash Extender. Flash Extenders attach to your flash the same way as bounce reflectors do. Light from flash spreads out at a wide angle. With telephoto lenses and flash, you can direct light at your subject by using a Flash Extender. Flash Extenders narrow the beam of light so you can direct the light onto the subject. You can gain up to an extra 2 stops of light with Flash extenders. This is the best method for times when light is very low and your subject is far.

Image Below: Flash Bracket
for holding flash off camera

There is no correct way of attaching and positioning your flash off camera. Start by positioning the flash at 30-40 degree angle a few inches above the lens. Keep in mind that this is a starting point and you may need to reposition the flash depending on the subject, distance, and available light. By the way, there is a concern about damage to animal's eyes with flash photography. Flash does not damage animal's eyes. The same is true with insects. Flash however, can bother animal's just as it can bother humans. Avoid firing flash continuously at animals especially in very dim lights. I have photographed mammals, birds, insects, and reptiles with flash. Only a few species seemed to be bothered with flash and that is in very low light. One way you can find out if your flash is bothering the animal is to see their reaction when flash is fired. They may make sudden movement or shake, which is a normal reaction at first. Most species will actually ignore the flash quickly. I have noticed that some insects and snakes, in very dim light and at close range, become very agitated. Snakes for instance, cannot see well and the sudden flash burst is seen as a threat. I have noticed the same defensive reaction on a few species of butterfly. My advice is to turn your flash off if you feel it is bothering the animal and move on.

Note: If you plan on photographing animals in the studio, do not run long sessions or use powerful flash units. If the animal shows signs of stress, end your session. You won't get good images and no photograph is worth disturbing animals.