Must have accessories

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Accessories

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Tripods

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Tripods, Monopods & heads

Tripod Accessories

Must Have Photo Accessories

There are accessories you should carry at all times to improve your photography or just to make the whole experience much easier. Some photographers, especially beginners, take only their cameras, lenses, and film. They believe that's all they need to take good pictures. There are hundreds of other accessories that you can use to help you take better pictures. Some are essential and every photographer must have and use them. Here is my list of very useful accessories you should consider
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Tripod:

This is one accessory that is more important than owning a better camera. Good lenses, good tripods, and good films are required for taking sharp images. Buy a solid tripod and use it at all times except where it is impossible to set up one. Tripods help you take sharper and better composed pictures. A solid tripod should be one of your first purchases. Avoid low priced models. Pay extra for a well made tripod and you should not have to upgrade it for a long time.
Designed for the professional photographer, this is an extremely versatile tripod, ideal for small, medium format cameras, digital or conventional type. The tripod has an easily removed centre column that just as easily re-fits as a horizontal lateral arm. Not only does this allow the camera to be offset from leg position, it provides the simplest way possible to shoot from directly overhead. Key features include four leg angle settings Centre column with an innovative three faced design Double positioning vertical and horizontal centre column Low-angle adapter built in the centre column for ground level shots Rapid-action lever leg locks with just 45-degree run

Three essential filters:

Every photographer should own a polarizing, ND-graduated, and 81B filters. None of these are special effect filters. Beginners like to experiment with special effect filters and this is fine. I still use special effect filters from time to time. They are fun to experiment with, but I prefer to photograph thing as they are. Every now and then, some scenes can use filtration to bring out the colors or to create some balance. Polarizers are used to darken the blue sky, but can also be used to remove reflection from shiny surfaces such as water or glass. You can also use Polarizers to saturate colors in outdoor photography.

ND-graduated filters are half clear and half tinted. They are used to reduce exposure in part of the frame in scenes when exposure range of the subject is too much for the film to handle. A sunset and foreground mountains for instance, can have up to 5 stop difference in exposure. If you expose for the orange part of the sky, you can underexpose the foreground, or overexpose the sunset if you expose for the mountains. An ND-graduated filter will reduce exposure by 1 or two stops so you can create a balanced exposure. 81B are warming filters and are used to intensify most colors except blue. Under overcast sky, 81B filters add warmth to the scene or they can be used for portrait photography for warmer skin tones. You can also use 81A or 81C filters for lesser or stronger effect.

Cable release:

Some people use cable releases for long exposure or bulb photography. Experienced photographers use them in all types of photography to reduce camera vibration which can cause unsharp images. Fast action photography is easier done without a cable release as you need to hold and pan the camera. For other types of photography, use a cable release even at faster shutter speeds. You'll see the difference in your pictures.

Canon RS-80N3 Remote Switch

A compact remote switch with a 2.6-foot (80 centimeter) cable to prevent camera shake for super telephoto shots, macro photography, and bulb exposures. Handy for taking pictures of subjects that are difficult to approach, or to minimize vibration for close-ups and time exposure.

Flash bracket:

I rarely use my flash on camera. Camera hot shoes are fine for snap shooters. For better flash photography, a flash bracket which attaches to the camera tripod socket and holds the flash at an angel reduces redeye and provides more natural looking light. You can buy an inexpensive bracket for as little as $5 to more than $100. Buy a bracket that lets you position the flash at different angles. Some models will let you use your flash even for macro photography with better result than macro flash units.

Stroboframe Folding Flip Compact Flash Bracket for Digital and 35mm Cameras

Folding Flip...The Latest in Flash Rotating Brackets...You asked for it and Stroboframe listened. Now the new compact folding flip has the versatility to accommodate 35mm as well as most Digital Cameras. The base is extra wide and has multiple camera mounting slots to accept just about any Digital or 35mm camera. This lightweight flash rotating bracket shares the same high quality materials and construction as Strobo's other brackets. The new folding feature allows you to carry the bracket in your vest pocket, bag or purse: a must for photo journalists, event photographers, or any photographer working out of their camera bag. The Folding Flip accepts Stroboframe Anti-twist plates and Quick Release Accessories

Teleconverters:

1.4X and 2X teleconverters are attached between the lens and the camera. They increase the lens focal length by 1.4X or 2X, but at a cost. You loose one stop of light with 1.4X and 2 stops with 2X teleconverters. A 300mm f-2.8 becomes 420mm f-4 with 1.4X and 600mm f-5.6 with 2X converters. You also loose some sharpness with teleconverters depending on the lens and teleconverter you use. Teleconverters work best with single focal length telephoto lenses. Avoid using teleconverters with zoom and mirror lenses. Although some fast pro model zooms can produce acceptable results, others lack sharpness and the slower f-stops make focusing and freezing movement very difficult. A 75-300mm f-5.6 with a 2X teleconverter becomes 150-600mm f-11. You need to close the lens down one or two stops to improve sharpness. At f-22 or even f-11 photographing moving subjects is difficult if not impossible. Use single focal length telephotos with at least f-4 wide open aperture. You can quickly gain extra reach with your telephoto lens and teleconverters. Buy the best teleconverter you can afford and use them only when you really need to.

Kenko Teleplus PRO 300 DG AF 1.4x Teleconverter

KENKO Teleplus Pro 300 converters are made with high quality multicoated optical glass supplied by Hoya corporation, the worlds largest manufacturer of optical glass. This glass will match the optical quality of the prime lens (even at the edges, unlike many teleconverters on the market today). The optical design of the elements and light path is wide enough not to cause any vignetting. They are designed specifically to be use with telephoto lenses of 100mm or above, and work best with telephoto lenses of 200mm to 500mm. The PRO 300's can be used with telephoto zoom lenses as well as prime lenses, but, due to their design, Kenko does not recommend them for lenses that have a zoom range that starts under 50mm. Kenko PRO 300 converters are intended to be used with expensive telephoto lenses and larger camera bodies. They have all metal lens mounts in both front and rear, as well as a metal core, to support today's heavy professional camera bodies.

Canon

Nikon

Extension tubes: These look like and attach to the camera the same way as teleconverters do, except they have no glass built into them. Extension tubes are used mainly for close-up photography and can be used with any lens. They are inexpensive and sold in set of three. 50mm of extension with a 50mm lens provide life-size close up capability. You can photograph flowers and insects. One area many people overlook extension tubes is telephotography. A short extension tube with a telephoto lens let you focus closer to photograph wildlife. I regularly use my 200mm f-2.8 with extension tubes to get closer to birds and small mammals. You loose some light with extension tubes, but your camera meter will compensate for light loss.

Lens hoods: Lens hoods are among the cheapest accessories, and most lenses come with one. Use them at all times to reduce flare and to protect the front of the lens. Lens hoods are much better than UV or skylight filters. You protect your lens and still get the glass quality you paid for your lens.

Other useful accessories

incident light meter: An incident light meter can help in difficult lighting situations. Incident light meters measure the light falling on the subject as opposed to the light reflected from it. camera meters are reflected types and can be fooled by subject's tonality. Incident meters can give more accurate readings as they are unaffected by subject's color or contrast. I use mine whenever I need a second opinion as long as I can place it under the same light as my subject.
Motor drives, winders, and grips: Motor drives and winders automatically advance the film to the next frame. This allows you to concentrate on your shooting without having to worry about manually advancing film. The difference between motor drives and winders is that the later has slower continuous film advance and no film rewind. Motor drives also include a shutter release for vertical shooting. Most modern SLRs now have built-in winders with continuous film advance and rewind. Accessory grips are sold for some models featuring vertical shutter release and command controls. They provide much better grips and accept AA batteries which are readily available and cheaper than CR2 or 123A lithium batteries.
Swiss army knife: Great for camping but better for repairing camera and lenses. I have used mine for quick minor repairs in the field. It is not a photographic equipment but it comes in handy when small screws in your camera or lens becomes loose.
Monopods and Bean bags: Monopods are great for supporting the camera in places where tripods are difficult to use. Wildlife and sports photographers use monopods when they have to be on the move or in stadiums and arenas where tripods are not allowed. Bean bags are used to support the camera when shooting from the car. You can make one or buy one for less than $10.