Photographing People Outdoors
Left Image: Digital SLR,
Tamron 70-210mm f-2.8 lens, 1/500 sec at f-8, multisegment metering.
Handheld.
Photographing people outdoors is both challenging and very rewarding. It is
undoubtedly more challenging than working in the studio. Outdoors is more
challenging because you have no control whatsoever over the subject or
lighting. In the studio, you can set up your equipment and control shadows
by positioning lights at different angles. In the studio you also have
control over the subject. The model is willing to pose anyway the
photographer wishes. However there is a problem in studio portraits. No
matter what the photographer does, there is always something unnatural about
the person or persons in the image. The reason is simple.
Nobody to my knowledge can possibly be "themselves" and pose natural. No one can completely ignore the camera and be at ease,
especially when they are asked to try to be themselves. This just makes it
more difficult. People become self-conscious in front of the camera. Even
professional models cannot look all natural when posing.
The best people pictures are taken outdoors. People go about their daily lives not worrying about impressing anyone (well, most
people at least feel this way). Photographers can take advantage of this
wonderful opportunity to provide excellent, all natural, images of ordinary
people. Images otherwise impossible in the studio.
The real challenge is finding the most interesting individuals and then
approaching them without them knowing. First of all, never walk up to a
person and point your camera at them and shoot. Most people don’t appreciate
this approach for the same reason you wouldn’t.
The first step is to find an individual that really strikes you. It might be
the way they are dressed. It could be the expression on their faces. It
could be their eyes, the way they walk, or how they react to the activities
around them. Once you find that individual, slowly
get as close to him or her as possible without them noticing you, or at
least suspecting that you’re approaching them. If your equipment looks
professional, most likely you will be noticed. People are fascinated by
cameras that are attached to motor drives or battery grips! Add a white lens
to this combo, and you’ll stand out in any crowd.
Pretend you are looking at something else. Do this by looking through the
camera at a different direction. Once your subject becomes unaware, slowly
turn and take the picture. This approach however, is uncomfortable and not
so easy. The best way is to shoot from a distance with a telephoto lens.
Kind of like wildlife photography. The best wildlife pictures are taken when the animal is unaware of your presence. This
is usually done from a distance with a telephoto lens.
Right Image: Digital SLR,
Tamron 70-210mm f-2.8 lens, 1/60 sec at f-4, multisegment metering.
A 70-210mm or newer 100-400mm zooms are best.
I prefer a 70-210mm f-2.8 for
this type of photography. The fast f-2.8 aperture gives me
a fast shutter
speed for handheld shots under most conditions. 100-400mm zooms have a
maximum aperture of f-5.6. This can be a problem for handheld shots unless
the zoom is equipped with anti-shake technology such a Cannon’s 100-400mm IS
or Nikon’s 80-400mm VR. Tripods are not practical for this type
of
photography. You’ll constantly be moving and looking through the
camera. Tripods make it very difficult to keep up with the subject.
Now, what’s there to look for besides clothing, eyes, or how somebody walks?
Every picture tells a story. This is truer with human subjects. The viewers
of your final image must get a sense of the
person’s life in the picture. Viewers should be able to guess something
about the subject’s character and mood. A combination of eyes and body
movement tell a lot about a person and what they are like. For instance, if
eyes are focused in one direction and the individual is walking slowly, this
indicates some sort of discomfort or deep thoughts. A person that looks more
aware of his or her surroundings and walks at a steady pace tells another
story. He or she is at ease. People’s self confidence or insecurities are
also visible by the way they look, walk, or how they are dressed. What makes
a good photograph is how you recognize expressions and mood of a person and
then capture it on film.
You can and should ask individuals that you find interesting to pose for you
if that is the only way for you to get the shot. If this is the case, ask
nicely and take your shots quickly. Don’s ask them to pose or smile. Take
their shots as they are and then move on. The
viewer must be able to recognize the same qualities in the picture, or at
least part of it without you explaining it to them. That is what people
photographing is really about. Expressions, character, and what makes each
person so unique.
As for equipment, a 35mm camera or digital SLR are best. They are easier to carry and hide if necessary. I recommend either 70-210mm f-2.8 lenses or 100-400mm image stabilizer lenses. This is not to say that only these types of lenses are capable of producing good results. Successful photos can be made with any lens if used properly. Under good conditions, any 70-210mm f-4.5–5.6 or regular 100-400mm f-5.6 zooms can produce equal results. Your approach and technique is far more important than the equipment you use.
Portrait
Photographer's Handbook
Rather than focusing on one particular aspect of portrait
photography, this book provides complete instructions for every step of
producing portraits with a professional look. From setting up the lighting,
posing the subject, and composing the finished shot to retouching methods and
developing techniques for the darkroom, each process is fully explored. These
proven techniques for producing flattering portraits in a variety of settings
will improve professionals' portraits and move amateurs' hobby photographs to
the next level. Examples clearly illustrate every concept presented in the book.